Service Description
Installing the wall and flooring tiles, also accessible for beginners
The installation of the wall and flooring tiles is considered one of the works that can be done in its own direction, although it is more complex for a simple beginner. Observing the right steps and a careful supervision of the resources and work guarantees good results to anyone who has the confidence to work.
You can also start with a small surface such as a piece of wall behind the kitchen worktop or an area near the bathroom sink to learn and practice how to better handle the working procedures. A success will then encourage you to switch to plate large portions.
The resistance and durability of plating depends also on the chosen materials
The work steps include measuring the perimeter for covering and purchasing the materials, preparing the support, preparing and applying the adhesive mixture, installing the tiles, and finally applying the grout putty.
The instructions are simple, execution requiring accurate measurements and attention to materials. For beginners, the lack of hurry is essential and it is helpful not to panic, being aware that a little uncertainty can be directed directly during work, as long as the adhesive is still wet. Choose medium tiles and a simple model, easier to install than a pattern with irregular shapes or tiles too small or too large.
The measurement of perimeter for plating and the purchase of materials
Because the final plating is a heavier covering for the wall, check that the walls are thick and rigid enough to withstand the additional load. Set the dimensions of the surface which will be plated. When buying the tiles you will know exactly how many tiles you need to cover the area.
You can also buy ceramic strips of the same material if you want a frame edge. Purchase an adhesive for tile and joints putty and plastic spacers for realizing the joints. It is also possible to purchase a paint protection spray that is applied with a brush, if you know you want to protect them from dirt (they are white, the surface is exposed to repeated splashes, etc.)
For the works you will need things you may already have:
– A bubble level, a ruler, two wooden sticks to make a right-angled corner frame from which to start the work, a tracing square, a pencil for measurements and markers, a spatula, a toothed spatula which will level the adhesive and imprint ditches in it, a straigth rubber spatula to apply the joint putty, a large sponge and a wooden rod to finish the joints. You may also need the chopping works, and these can be cut with a special hand saw, with a tile clamp or with a guillotine.
Preparing the support
The surfaces on which the ceramic is installed must be perfectly flat, compact and clean, free of dust or grease. The walls with painting or with old paint should be prepared before removing the old covering and filling the gaps with plaster to obtain a perfectly flat surface. After the wall dries, rub the surface with a fine sand, to become adhesive. Aspirate or remove the resulted dust.
Measure the surface and mark with the pencil on the wall. In the corner from which you will start the work, place the two wooden rulers at right angles under the linear markers. They will support the first row of tiles vertically and horizontally.
Preparation of the adhesive mixture
The adhesive mixture is obtained by adding clean water to the purchased powder, which is sold in sacks of various sizes, and mixing them. Observe the manufacturer’s indications of mixing and dosing to obtain a homogeneous paste without agglomerates that can be easily applied with the toothed spatula in uniform coat.
When buying the adhesive, do not forget to say what kind of support you have (concrete wall, plaster, wood, etc.), where it is positioned (is it an exterior or interior covering? Is it a wet place, such as a bathroom?) And what kind of tiles have you chosen (whether they are porous or glossy, what size they have and what shape?). On the market you can find powder-type adhesive, more practical, but also ready-mixed pastes made for specific destinations.
The application of adhesive mixture and installation of the tiles
Apply the first dose of tile adhesive mixture and then flatten it with the toothed spatula so that you get a striated surface and a layer of 4-6 mm thick (or depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations). The mortar can be applied directly with the mason’s float.
Usually, the dimensions of its teeth also calibrate the amount of adhesive used. Once covered, the perimeter should be enough to install about 6 tiles in the next step, but not much larger, so you can work from close to close, and not start the adhesive to dry. Even if theoretically it keeps its properties half an hour or so, its elasticity may disappear in the event of too hot a room.
Start from the corner and apply the first tiles, pressing firmly and firmly until it plugs. On each new tile, put the plastic spacers between the front and the new tile. After applying the first tiles, continue horizontally and vertically to create the guide rows. Check with the bubble level for the cover to be perfectly flat and press with it to align the tiles in plan. Continue by placing adhesive portions and working alternate, one vertical, one horizontal (or two). Install the tiles with spacers to cover the entire surface and continually adjust the surface with the bubble level.
The last tiles are installed by placing mortar on the back of the tile with the mason’s float, not directly on the wall, to hesitate the adhesive to stretch. For the end, you may only need pieces of wall tile, just like for perimeters where you have a pipe, an entrance, a corner, etc. To do this, you will need to cut the tile by taking a pattern with a piece of paper in the shape of a tile and drawing in pattern the groove. Copy the tile and then cut it off.
Do not forget to remove the spacers when you finish the plating, so that the mortar does not get stronger. If you get dirt on the tiles, use a damp sponge to wash the remained mortar, rinse it and wash until it is clean. You have about half an hour but, as I was saying, if it is hot this period can shorten. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for execution and curing time anyway. Allow to dry according to these instructions.
Apply the joint putty
The joint putty is also obtained by mixing the powder with water until homogeneous, as indicated by the manufacturer instructions. Now there are not only white or gray putties but also colored, so they can be chosen according to the color of the tiles. The putty is applied between tiles using a towel or a mason’s float without teeth, using a sweeping motion. The surplus of putty remained on the tile will then be removed with the wet sponge, it is important to fill the joints, regular and smooth, without cracks.
Wipe off the surplus, frequently cleaning the sponge and squeezing it well. When the adhesive begins to harden, press it with a round rod or even with the finger (wearing a latex glove) to press it and give it a smooth shape. Let it dry. At the end you can also lacquer the joints with a brush to protect them (but it is not mandatory, the decision depends only on the risk of cushioning the plated surface).







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